CDT Days 78-80: The Collegiates — OR — Land of 1,000 Passes

The morning out of Twin Lakes gets straight to the point. 3,300 ft of climbing before I even finish my coffee. You’re cheeky Colorado, but I like you. I’m mincing my steady way up when LongJohn and FunkTrain barrel past me (FunkTrain is a friend of LongJohn from the AT, currently hiking the CT, and overlaps with us for a few days!). They’re racing to the top of the pass, winner gets a beer. Lol, have fun boys! No part of me wants to race up over 12,500 ft… but I can’t help but feel a little slow as they grow their lead up the switchbacks. With all the walking the past few months, I’ve had time to realltly tune into my homeostasis when it comes to pacing. And let me tell you. It’s a very narrow band. I’ve got one good gear, and when I’m in it, I could honestly hike forever. Especially on this trail. I remember on the PCT, me feet were always the limiting factor. I’d yell ahead to Weekend: “The dogs! They’re barking!” Or the more desperate variant: “Aaarf.” Both meant time to find camp. But out here, the dogs just aren’t barking as much. 2,000 miles on the divide has turned the bottoms of my feet into plastic. Or what I affectionately refer to as my milk gallon feet. The skin is thick and tough but will dent under pressure. Like a jug of milk.

I know. I’m cute 💁

So beer prize be damned! My homeostatic mince won’t win, but these here milk gallon feet will get me to there.

There’s a tangled knot of prayer flags at the top of Hope Pass — and views of mountains layered on mountains, sprinked with lakes and densely freckled with the full fall spectrum of color. I sit next to LongJohn and FunkTrain and smash snacks. It is WINDY. They wait for FunkTrain’s hiking partner who’s working through an ankle injury, but I feel antsy and forge ahead.

The Collegiate Peaks Wilderness I hike into next pushes me head over heels. When I’m not on high passes with perfect visibility over peaks in all directions, I’m walking through miles on miles on miles of aspen tunnels. I cannot stop photographing the foliage. Each golden leaf glows like it’s generating a wee light source all on it’s own.

Colorodans are out and about in the area. I get why. I meet day hikers, backpackers and even Lost Larry! A northbound CDT hiker I split a bottle of wine and a ride back to the trail with way back in Leadore, MT. He’s flipping around Colorado, finishing up a few sections he had to skip.

I don’t see LongJohn again until the next morning. It’s 6:30am and he’s cowboy camped a mile past where I slept. Quilt is synched over his head, body curled against the deep chill of the frosted valley floor. I step to avoid twig breaks. I’ll see him later today, I’m sure.

Now I’m in the meaty core of the Collegiates. I spend 20 miles hiking above tree line. The universe conspires in my favor and meets this prolonged exposure with crystal skies. Not a single slip of a cloud. There’s been so much haze, smoke and general weather since Canada that I forget my eyes can even see this well. It’s also a very quiet day. I didn’t charge my battery pack in Twin Lakes, a mistake that keeps my phone in ultimate airplane lock down mode. The silence only amplifies the experience of the day. Maybe I’ll forget to charge my battery more often.

From passing LongJohn to my eventual evening collapse on the Alpine Tunnel road, I climb over five passes. Five times I push my legs and lungs to max effort. Five times I’m breathless, giddy and altitude addled as I take my last few steps up the last few vertical feet. Five times (BAM!) I’m hit with a new mountain packed horizon on the other side. Five times I throw my trekking poles overhead. And five times, I smash a fun size summit Snick. One helluva day of hiking!!

The next morning I have one more pass, Chalk Creek Pass, and then wind my way toward Monarch Mountain. The ski resort is in summer hibernation mode. Frozen chair lifts and ski run signs pointed down rocky hillsides. Ski areas in summer always creep me out for some reason.

From Monarch Pass, I get an instant hitch to the Salida Walmart. My backpack rides in the front of my shopping cart while I pick up the essentials: kombucha, chips, guac, ice cream and whipped cream. I roll the cart outside to bench and wait for my next ride. Who’s driving? You guessed it! Country Mouse and Shadow of course! Third time seeing them on the CDT. Hey Weekend, Playa and DB: ya jealous much? 😏

They pick me up and take me to their RV, aka Large Marge, where I have the pleasure of spending the next twenty four hours. Country Mouse has slow cooked pork for tacos and made a spicy peach pie for dessert. Shadow tells me there’s one rule: “you gotta make yourself at home.”

Make myself at home in someone else’s home? Ha! I’ve been training for this all season.